If possible, put together your photographic set-up and leave it. This is especially true if you work in a fairly consistent size. This reduces a lot of the work of setting up and adjusting the lighting for the beam width and distance from the piece, the camera's distance from the piece, and so on.
The background is very important. It should be notable for its absence, rather than its presence. In the image above, you can see I am using a large sheet of heavy, velvet-like paper as a background. This is actually heavy-duty wallpaper liner. Because of its density, size, toughness, and subtly mottled off-white color, I find it an excellent choice for a photographic background. Look for rolls of wallpaper liner at your local house paint and wallpaper stores.
Also note that the background paper runs from well above the pot to well beyond it in one continuous length. There is no division from vertical to horizontal...only a gentle curve. This eliminates the bugaboo of a "horizon line" in the photograph and keeps the eye and interest in the piece itself. You can also make a portable photography table.
If possible, use a tripod and either a timer or cable shutter release. This reduces the possibility of blurred images. When shooting, make sure that your camera is parallel to your work.** Center the piece in the middle of the shot. You want the entire piece framed in the shot without excess background surrounding it, at least in the finished image.
DSLRs have a real advantage over film cameras here. I used to use make certain my photo was absolutely centered and the right size when I took the photo. Now, however, I am able to move images directly from my camera into an image editing program in my computer. This allows me much more finesse as I crop images to the correct size. Remember, however, that customers, stores, juries and galleries will have a justified gripe if the cropping is so extensive as to change the character and visual presentation of the work.
** Tip: If for some reason you are shooting using a flash instead of separate lights or outdoors, you can angle plates and other flat surfaces slightly. This will reduce glare, as the light bounces back at a slightly different angle.